Uhtreds feast, p.14
Uhtred’s Feast, page 14
A word used slightly earlier was ‘larder’, which derives from the Latin for lard. This was a cool place, sometimes built outside the house, and always, whether inside or out, on the north side of the building, with mostly stone floors and shelves. It was used for storing meats and dairy products, with hooks in the ceiling for hanging the meats.
While most food was consumed according to the seasons – as we are now being encouraged to do again – our ancestors came up with remarkably ingenious ways of preserving foodstuffs, some of which are still being used by artisan producers today. The traditional processes for this hugely important job included salting, drying (with heat or simply air), smoking, pickling and brining, with a variety of methods for different ingredients.
Many of these processes are extremely old. Pickling using vinegar or brine is a 4,000-year-old method of preservation that protects the body’s gut health, helping the body to digest and absorb food. Pickled foods have been keeping people healthy throughout history.
Salting has also been used for thousands of years. Soon after the Romans came to England in AD 43 they started developing saltworks along the east coast. They found an area known by the Celtic name Hellath du (now Cheshire), which had been producing salt for centuries – the earliest evidence dates to 600 BC. Later, Hellath du got the Anglo-Saxon name Northwich, meaning ‘northern saltworks’. (The Anglo-Saxons called a saltwork a ‘wich’, so any place in England with ‘wich’ at the end at one time produced salt.) Despite this long history, however, salt was expensive to produce, and so smoking meat and fish was often preferred as a cheaper alternative. Salt was still needed for the smoking process, but in much smaller quantities.
Natural fermentation also happened from the earliest times, offering an easy and natural way to keep and use foods. It was mostly used to produce various forms of alcohol, but also to preserve vegetables and dairy products.
It was the preservation of meat, however – a valuable product – that was particularly important, and it could be extremely effective. Dried meat could keep for years. Various methods were used: pigs, for example, which were reared for meat, were slaughtered in late autumn and then stored in a number of ways. Parts of the animal were salted, smoked, rendered for fat and boiled, and the scraps were used to make meatballs.
Such methods were an indispensable part of Anglo-Saxon life. Not only would preserved foods feed a household throughout a cold and barren winter; they were also necessary lifelines for travellers on land and sea.
Recipes
Barley, Peas and Leeks Baked Barley and Mushrooms Fermented Shredded Turnip Horseradish, two ways Pickled Vegetables: Cabbage, Fennel and Leeks, Mushrooms, Turnips, Cucumbers Sauerkraut Vinaigrettes Pease Pudding Spiced Walnuts Dried Fruits Saxon Rub
Barley, Peas and Leeks
Leeks are not eaten raw but they cook quickly and add a mellow delicious flavour. Do not defrost the frozen peas before cooking – we add them at the end to keep their texture and so they don’t get soggy.
❖ 200g (7oz) barley
❖ 2 tablespoons chicken fat or olive oil
❖ 2 leeks, sliced
❖ 150g (5oz) frozen peas
❖ 15g (15g) chopped parsley
❖ Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Pour 750ml (1¼ pints) water into a saucepan over high heat, add the barley and a large pinch of salt and bring to the boil. Reduce and simmer for 20–25 minutes until the barley is tender. Drain.
Heat the fat in a frying pan over medium heat and cook the leeks until softened, 5–8 minutes. Add salt and pepper and the frozen peas. Stir in the parsley and barley and cook until warmed through. Taste for seasoning before serving.
Baked Barley and Mushrooms
Barley was cultivated around 10,000 years ago, and it has been used both to feed animals and to make bread, beer, soups and stews. When cooked, barley becomes plump and chewy.
The creamy texture in this recipe is a result of adding cheese and butter, which were part of the Saxon diet. Expensive mature cheeses were eaten by the wealthy, while peasants would have had fresh cheese. If you don’t happen to have fresh cheese available, substitute it for aged Parmesan. Mace was a spice used in wealthy kitchens along with pepper, ginger, cloves and cinnamon, and was also used to make medicine.
❖ 3 tablespoons fat
❖ 2 onions, chopped
❖ 6 garlic cloves, chopped
❖ 450g (1lb) mushrooms, cleaned and quartered, depending on the size
❖ 300g (10oz) barley
❖ 3 tablespoons grated Parmesan
❖ 2 tablespoons butter
❖ Large pinch of ground mace
❖ Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/gas 7.
In a heavy-based casserole pot, heat the fat over medium heat and add the onions and garlic, stirring until softened. Add the mushrooms and cook for about 5 minutes until they have softened.
Stir in the barley and 1 litre (1¾ pints) water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Cover the pot and put it in the oven for 30 minutes. The barley will be chewy and most of the water will be gone.
Stir in the Parmesan, butter and mace and season with salt and pepper. Cover the pot and let sit for 15–20 minutes until the rest of the water is absorbed. The barley will become very creamy.
Fermented Shredded Turnip
Fermentation is a good way to preserve turnips, and this method also helps with digestion. Fermentation really plays up the natural sweetness of raw turnip, as well as a bit of that peppery bite that they have. This may simply become your new favourite sauerkraut!
❖ About 1.8kg (4lb) good fresh turnips
❖ About 120g (4½oz) unrefined sea salt
❖ Cabbage leaves or cling film
Shred the turnips with a box or cheese grater into a bowl and sprinkle with the salt all over, coating well. Mix the two together with your hands as the turnips release water for about 5 minutes until you can grab and squeeze the grated turnip and the water releases easily. At this point, transfer the turnip to a non-reactive jar or container that has a lid along with the drained liquid. Tamp down the turnips, releasing any air pockets and ensuring they are entirely submerged. Leave about 5cm (2in) clear at the top of the container.
Place and press and tuck down the cabbage leaves to make sure the mixture stays submerged – how many leaves you need depends on the size and shape of your container. You can also use cling film, pressing down and in. You want to get out any air bubbles and ensure the shredded turnips remain submerged.
Now you can top the container with a fermentation top or lid, which is a wonderful modern convenience, or you can cover the top with a double layer of cheesecloth secured in place with string or an elastic band to keep the contents sanitary and still allow for it to breathe. Check on the contents every so often and scoop out any bits that appear to rot or become mouldy. A fermentation lid will ensure a more hygienic seal, but use your judgement, and remember fermentation lids are rather new!
Fermentation does best in a cool and dark place, and the amount of time it takes depends on temperature – above 20°C (68°F) will take two weeks or so; 18°C (64°F) takes about 3 weeks, while below 15°C (60°F) takes a month or more. To know when it is ready, check the sourness by tasting a little – leave it a bit longer if you want it more sour. When done, seal with a proper lid and store in the fridge or play with extending fermentations! Use before the next growing season.
Horseradish
Horseradish is a pungent and spicy ingredient that was available even in Anglo-Saxon times, possibly brought over by Germanic ancestors. It can be grated and mixed into cultured sour cream or macerated – maceration softens the external wall of the horseradish and draws out its juices.
Grocers stock fresh horseradish, which is a brown-skinned root. If it is dried out, pour 1–2 tablespoons of water into a closed bag with the horseradish and place in the fridge for a few days. The root will draw in the water and reconstitute itself. This same reconstitution process works well with any root vegetable. If fresh horseradish is unavailable, purchase high-quality prepared horseradish, usually found in the refrigerated section of the supermarket.
❖ 2 parts freshly grated horseradish
❖ 1 part cultured soured cream
Simply mix the ingredients together in a bowl and let them come together for an hour. Keeps well for up to a week in a cool place.
To add some extra flavour to your horseradish sauce, add any of the variations listed below.
Simple additions
❖ Chopped fresh dill
❖ White pepper
❖ Black pepper
Marinated Horseradish
❖ 2 parts freshly grated horseradish
❖ 1 part cider vinegar
❖ Honey, to taste
❖ Salt
Mix all together in a bowl and marinate for 1 hour or more. Keeps for up to a week in a cold place.
Pickled Cabbage with Apples
Cabbage was probably domesticated in Europe before 1000 BC. It is delicious raw, cooked, fermented (see sauerkraut recipe here) and pickled. The vinegar and salt used in the pickling process ‘cure’ the cabbage.
The first mention of apples in England was by King Alfred in about AD 885 in his English translation of Pope Gregory’s Pastoral Care.
❖ 500g (1lb 2oz) green cabbage, finely shredded
❖ 140g (5oz) salt
❖ 500ml (18fl oz) cider vinegar
❖ 200ml (7fl oz) white wine
❖ 300g (10oz) honey
❖ 2 teaspoons black peppercorns
❖ 6 bay leaves
❖ 2 tablespoons mustard seeds
❖ 1 Pink Lady apple, peeled, cored and thinly sliced lengthways
Place the shredded cabbage in a colander in the sink and sprinkle all over with salt, mixing well. Leave for 2 hours. Wash the cabbage with cold water until the salt washes away.
Meanwhile, put the vinegar, wine, honey, peppercorns and bay leaves into a saucepan and simmer until the liquid has reduced by half, 20–30 minutes. Set aside to infuse and come to room temperature.
Strain through a sieve into a bowl, discarding the peppercorns and bay leaves. Put the cabbage, mustard seeds and apple into a bowl and pour over the strained liquid. Transfer the cabbage and liquid to jars, seal and store in a cold place for up to a month.
Pickled Fennel and Leeks
Fennel was used as food and medicine in ancient Egypt. Leeks were one of the most popular vegetables eaten by the Anglo-Saxons.
❖ 2 fennel bulbs
❖ 2 leeks
❖ 2 tablespoons salt
❖ 500ml (18fl oz) cider vinegar
❖ 250g (9oz) honey
❖ 2 teaspoons mustard seeds
Remove the top part of the fennel. Halve the bulb and cut into thin slices. Wash the slices. Trim the root end and cut off the leeks where the pale green turns to dark green. Halve the white and pale green part lengthwise and wash, checking for dirt between the layers of leaves.
Combine the fennel and leeks in a bowl. Add the salt and toss to evenly coat. Add cold water to cover, then stir to dissolve the salt. Set aside for 1 hour, then taste and feel the fennel. It should be slightly softened. Drain.
Meanwhile, combine the vinegar, honey and mustard seeds in a saucepan and simmer for 5 minutes over medium heat. Set aside to cool.
Divide the fennel and leeks equally among containers with lids and pour the brine over to completely cover. Seal tightly and place in a cold place for a day to allow the flavours to permeate the fennel. The pickles will keep for at least a month in a cold place.
Pickled Mushrooms
Slightly sweet with honey and brightened with herbs, these mushrooms have a complexity of flavour that makes them useful as a snack, side or condiment.
❖ 60ml (2½fl oz) cider vinegar
❖ 4–5 garlic cloves
❖ A few sprigs of thyme or marjoram
❖ 1 tablespoon honey
❖ Pinch of freshly ground black pepper
❖ 1–2 teaspoons coarse salt
❖ 450g (1lb) mixed mushrooms, such as oysters, enokis, cremini, and shiitakes, cleaned with kitchen paper
Combine the vinegar, garlic, thyme or marjoram, honey, pepper and salt in a pan and bring to the boil over medium heat. Add the mushrooms (larger ones first since they take longer to cook) and cook for a few minutes, until the mushrooms are all tender. Take the pan off the heat and leave the mushrooms to cool in the liquid.
Once cool, transfer the mushrooms and their cooking liquid to clean mason jars. Seal tightly and place in a cold place, where they will keep for at least a month.
Pickled Turnips
❖ 750ml (1¼ pints) water
❖ 70g (3oz) coarse salt
❖ 1 bay leaf
❖ 250ml (8fl oz) white vinegar
❖ 900g (2lb) turnips, peeled
❖ 1 garlic clove, peeled
Heat one-third of the water in a large pan over medium heat. Add the salt and bay leaf, stirring until the salt is dissolved. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature. Once cool, add the vinegar and the rest of the water, stirring to combine.
Cut the turnips into batons, about the size of thick French fries. Put the turnips and garlic into a clean jar, then pour the salted brine over them, including the bay leaf. Cover and let sit at room temperature, in a cool place, for one week – they will mellow after a few days. The pickles will keep for a month in a cold place.
Pickled Cucumbers
Cleopatra attributed some of her beauty to pickles; Aristotle praised the healing effects of pickled cucumbers; and later peoples also highly valued pickled cucumbers.
Dill, one of the most important herbs used in pickling cucumbers and other vegetables, arrived in Western Europe from its native Sumatra around AD 900, although ancient Greeks and Romans used it extensively centuries earlier.
❖ 120ml (4fl oz) vinegar
❖ 120ml (4fl oz) water
❖ 1 teaspoon salt
❖ 1 tablespoon honey
❖ 2 cucumbers, rinsed and thickly sliced
❖ 1 tablespoon dill leaves
❖ 1 teaspoon caraway seeds
Combine the vinegar, water, salt and honey in a saucepan and heat until the honey has dissolved.
Place the cucumbers in a bowl and pour the vinegar and honey mix over them. Sprinkle in the dill and caraway seeds. Leave for 2 hours before eating.
The cucumber slices will keep in the pickling liquid stored in a cold place for about a week.
Sauerkraut
Fermentation is a natural way to preserve and stabilise foods, but you need to exercise a little caution with this process. This is a controlled rot of sorts, but a good rule of thumb is that if it smells good and appetising, you are fine. Fermentation has been done for centuries and in less-clean areas than the modern and maintained kitchen, but you still should be vigilant about your preparations and keep everything clean at all times, washing and sanitising your workspace and equipment. Soap and water are fine, as are natural cleaners, but don’t use bleach.
❖ 1 head of cabbage, about 1.8kg (4lb) total
❖ 95g (3½oz) unrefined sea salt
Shred the cabbage with a knife or mandolin, reserving a couple of leaves, and sprinkle all over with the salt. Mix everything together well with your hands to help the cabbage release water, reserving the liquid. This should take about 5 minutes, until you can grab and squeeze the grated cabbage and the water releases easily. At this point, transfer the cabbage to a non-reactive jar or container that has a lid along with the drained liquid. Tamp down the cabbage, releasing any air pockets and ensuring everything is entirely submerged. Leave about 5cm (2in) clear at the top of the container.
Tuck down the reserved cabbage leaves on top of the shredded mix to make sure the mixture stays submerged. You can also use cling film, pressing down and in. You want to get out any air bubbles and ensure the shredded cabbage remains submerged.
As with the recipe for Fermented Shredded Turnip (see recipe here) now you can top the container with a fermentation top or lid, or you can cover the top with a double layer of cheesecloth secured in place with string or an elastic band to keep the contents sanitary and still allow for it to breathe. Check on the contents every so often and scoop out any bits that appear to rot or become mouldy. A fermentation lid will ensure a more hygienic seal.
Fermentation does best in a cool and dark place, and the amount of time it takes depends on temperature; above 20°C (68°F) will take 2 weeks or so; 18°C (64°F) takes about 3 weeks, while below 15°C (60°F) takes a month or more. To know when it is ready, check the sourness by tasting a little – leave it a bit longer if you want it more sour. When done, seal with a proper lid and store in the fridge or play with extending fermentations! Use before the next growing season.
Vinaigrettes
