Manresa, p.28
Manresa, page 28
Line a 5 by 8-inch flat-bottomed tray or shallow pan with acetate.
Soften the gelatin in ice water, then drain to remove any excess water. Put 50 grams (3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon) of the strained juice mixture in a pot and slowly whisk in the agar agar. Continue whisking while bringing the mixture to a boil over high heat. While it is boiling, whisk in the gelatin. When the gelatin is fully incorporated, pour the mixture onto the prepared tray to form a thin, even sheet.
| Red Wine Meringue |
100 grams (6½ tablespoons) egg whites (3)
0.5 gram (pinch) cream of tartar
200 grams (1 cup) sugar
75 grams (5 tablespoons) red wine reduction (reduced by half)
Over a double boiler, combine the egg whites, cream of tartar, and sugar and whisk until the sugar is dissolved. Place in the bowl of a mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Whisk on high until the meringue is stiff, then slowly drizzle in the red wine reduction. Transfer the meringue to a pastry bag fitted with a #801 plain tip.
> To Serve
15 Bing cherries, halved and pitted
20 oxalis (wood sorrel) leaves
With a small ring mold, cut about 30 pieces of Pistachio Tuile. Slice the Cherry Sheet lengthwise, cutting a ½-inch-wide strip for each serving. With a larger ring mold, cut a 3- to 4-inch-diameter round of Pistachio Parfait for each serving. Wrap a cherry strip around each piece of parfait, and place off-center on a plate. Pipe 8 to 9 Red Wine Meringue kisses on each plate, then caramelize the meringue with a kitchen torch. Garnish with several pools of Red Wine Cherry Sauce topped with fresh cherry halves and tuile rounds, a spoonful of Cherry Pit Crumble, and a few oxalis leaves.
Plums, Fresh Cheese and Buckwheat
PLUMS, FRESH CHEESE AND BUCKWHEAT
SERVES 8
Our interpretation of a fruit cheesecake. The buckwheat–graham cracker crust and ice cream work well with the raw and cooked plums.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
BUCKWHEAT PAIN DE MIE: Pain de mie (Pullman) loaf pan, approximately 12 inches by 4 inches by 5 inches
BUCKWHEAT ICE CREAM: Ice cream maker
CREAM CHEESE PANNA COTTA: Immersion blender, hemisphere silicone baking mold sheet with 20 to 24 small cavities (about 1-inch-diameter, 0.3-ounce capacity)
PLUM GLAZE: Acetate sheet
| Buckwheat Pain de Mie |
400 grams (3⅓ cups) buckwheat flour
350 grams (2½ cups) bread flour
380 grams (1½ cups plus 2 tablespoons) whole milk
125 grams (6 tablespoons) buckwheat honey
19 grams (3¾ teaspoons) kosher salt
13 grams (0.46 ounce) fresh yeast (approximately ¾ cake)
Combine all the ingredients in the bowl of a mixer fitted with a dough hook and mix on low speed for 2 minutes. Increase the speed to medium and mix for another 4 minutes. Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl to proof until it doubles in size.
Oil a pan de mie pan. Roll the dough on a lightly floured surface into a ½-inch-thick rectangle about the same length as the pan. Roll the dough into a cylinder, place it in the oiled pan, and allow it to proof until it doubles in size.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
When the dough has doubled in size, bake, uncovered, for 30 to 40 minutes, until golden brown. Remove the loaf from the pan, let cool, cut half of the loaf into 1-inch cubes, and reserve for the Buckwheat Ice Cream.
| Buckwheat Ice Cream |
1.9 kilograms (8 cups) whole milk
40 grams (⅓ cup) nonfat milk powder
100 grams (½ cup plus 2 tablespoons) Demerara sugar
5 grams Sevarome stabilizer 64G
40 grams glucose powder
40 grams (2 tablespoons) buckwheat honey
170 grams (¾ cup) heavy cream
30 grams (2 tablespoons) egg yolks (1 to 2)
Bring the milk to a simmer, pour over the cubed Buckwheat Pain de Mie, and cover with plastic wrap. When the mixture has cooled, transfer it to the refrigerator to infuse overnight.
The next day, combine the nonfat milk powder, Demerara sugar, stabilizer, glucose powder, and buckwheat honey and set aside. Strain the buckwheat bread–infused milk. Combine 580 grams (2½ cups) of the milk in a pan with the cream and bring to 115°F (45°C) over medium heat. Whisk in the milk powder mixture and heat to 150°F (65°C). Vigorously whisk in the egg yolks and continue heating the mixture while whisking, until it reaches 185°F (85°C). Immediately pour the ice cream base into a bowl set over an ice bath and allow it to cool completely. Strain the base, then freeze according to your ice cream maker’s instructions.
| Cream Cheese Panna Cotta |
5 grams (2 sheets) silver gelatin, softened in ice water
225 grams (1 cup) heavy cream
120 grams (½ cup plus 2 tablespoons) sugar
450 grams (1 pound) fresh cream cheese
2 grams (scant ½ teaspoon) kosher salt
Drain the gelatin to remove any excess water. Combine the cream and sugar and stir over medium heat until the sugar dissolves. Stir in the gelatin, strain the cream mixture, and cool to room temperature.
With an immersion blender, mix the cream mixture into the fresh cream cheese. Pour into a hemisphere silicone baking mold sheet. Freeze on a level surface until solid.
| Plum Glaze |
6 fresh red Santa Rosa plums, pitted
7 grams (approximately 2¾ sheets) silver gelatin, softened in ice water
200 grams (½ cup plus 2 tablespoons) Valrhona Absolu Cristal
Puree the plums in a blender, strain, and reserve 200 grams (¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon) of plum puree in a saucepan.
Line a sheet tray with acetate. Drain the gelatin to remove any excess water.
Add the gelatin and Absolu Cristal to the puree and heat the mixture, while stirring, until they have dissolved. Cool the plum mixture over an ice bath to about 82°F (28°C). Dip the frozen Cream Cheese Panna Cotta hemispheres into the glaze, holding each dome on a fork or offset spatula. Place the coated domes on a wire rack, freeze, and apply a second coat of glaze. Hold in the refrigerator on a sheet tray lined with acetate until ready to serve.
| Buckwheat Graham Cracker |
170 grams (¾ cup) butter, softened
70 grams (6 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon) brown sugar
55 grams (4½ tablespoons) granulated sugar
21 grams (1 tablespoon) buckwheat honey
110 grams (⅔ cup) all-purpose flour
70 grams (½ cup plus 2 tablespoons) cake flour
75 grams (½ cup plus 1 tablespoon) buckwheat flour
Pinch of kosher salt
2 grams (½ teaspoon) baking soda
1 gram (½ teaspoon) ground cinnamon
Cream the butter in the bowl of a mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Add the brown and granulated sugars and buckwheat honey and mix until light and fluffy. Add the all-purpose, cake, and buckwheat flours; salt; baking soda; and cinnamon. Mix on low speed until the ingredients are completely combined. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
Roll out the dough ¼ inch thick on a silicone baking mat. Place the mat on a sheet pan and bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until the edges begin to brown. Cool the cracker, chop it finely, and pass the crumbs through a fine tamis or fine-mesh sieve. Chop the large remaining crumbs, return them to the tamis, and repeat as needed.
| Buckwheat Popcorn |
150 grams (¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons) unhulled buckwheat
Grapeseed oil, for deep-frying
Kosher salt
Pour the grapeseed oil into a deep pan to a depth of 2 inches and heat to 400°F (200°C). Line a tray with paper or linen towels.
With a large spoon, place the buckwheat into the hot oil. Stir the buckwheat with a mesh strainer and remove the kernels as they pop. Drain the puffed buckwheat on the prepared tray and season immediately with salt.
> To Serve
3 to 4 fresh plums
40 to 50 buckwheat sprout leaves
8 to 10 borage flowers
Slice the plums with their peels into very thin rounds on a mandoline. Cut a slit in each slice, from the center to the edge, and shape the slice into a cone. Place a piece of Plum-Glazed Cream Cheese Panna Cotta on each plate, next to a small spoonful of Buckwheat Graham Cracker Crumb. Top the crumb with a quenelle of Buckwheat Ice Cream and finish each serving with the fresh plum cones, 4 or 5 pieces of Buckwheat Popcorn, buckwheat sprout leaves, and a borage flower.
Milk Chocolate Mousse, Dulce De Leche, Milk Meringue, Buttermilk Sorbet (Aka Milk and Chocolate)
MILK CHOCOLATE MOUSSE, DULCE DE LECHE, MILK MERINGUE, BUTTERMILK SORBET (AKA MILK AND CHOCOLATE)
SERVES 8 to 10
A deconstructed glass of chocolate milk? This dessert offers comforting flavors that everyone can relate to, pairing soft chocolate with many forms and textures of milk, one of nature’s most perfect foods.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
BUTTERMILK SORBET: Immersion blender, ice cream maker
MILK CHOCOLATE MOUSSE: Immersion blender
CHOCOLATE SPRAY: 3- to 4-inch round cutter, chocolate sprayer or paint sprayer
MILK MERINGUE: Immersion blender
DULCE DE LECHE CURD: Squeeze bottle
| Buttermilk Sorbet |
120 grams (½ cup plus 2 tablespoons) sugar
120 grams (⅓ cup) glucose syrup
60 grams trimoline
10 grams Sevarome stabilizer 64G
250 grams (1 cup) whole milk
750 grams (3 cups) cultured buttermilk
Kosher salt
Combine the sugar, glucose, trimoline, and stabilizer and set aside. Heat the milk over medium heat until it reaches 115°F (45°C). Whisk in the sugar mixture and continue heating, whisking constantly, until it reaches 185°F (85°C). Cool the milk mixture over an ice bath. Add the cool milk mixture to the buttermilk, mix with an immersion blender to combine, season to taste with salt, and strain. Freeze according to your ice cream maker’s instructions.
| Milk Chocolate Mousse |
6 grams (approximately 2½ sheets) silver gelatin, softened in ice water
262 grams (1 cup plus 1½ tablespoons) whole milk
33 grams (2½ tablespoons) sugar
5 grams (1 teaspoon) kosher salt
560 grams (2⅓ cups) heavy cream
132 grams (½ cup) egg yolks (7 to 8)
430 grams (15 ounces) milk chocolate, melted
Line a half sheet pan (13 by 18 by 1-inch pan) with plastic wrap.
Drain the gelatin to remove any excess water. Combine the milk, sugar, salt, and 65 grams (¼ cup plus 1 teaspoon) of the cream and heat over medium heat, whisking constantly. When the mixture reaches 115°F (45°C), vigorously whisk in the egg yolks and continue heating until the mixture reaches 185°F (85°C). Remove the pan from the heat, stir in the gelatin, and strain onto the melted chocolate. Mix thoroughly with an immersion blender until the chocolate base is smooth and glossy. Place the base over an ice bath and fold with a spatula while spinning the bowl until the base cools to room temperature. Whip the remaining 495 grams (2 cups plus 1 tablespoon) cream to medium-soft peaks and fold the cream into the chocolate base. Pour the mousse onto the prepared sheet pan and freeze overnight.
| Chocolate Spray |
200 grams (7 ounces) 70 percent dark chocolate
200 grams (7 ounces) cocoa butter
Cut the Milk Chocolate Mousse into 3- to 4-inch-disks. Melt the chocolate and cocoa butter, and use the sprayer to coat the mousse.
| Crispy Chocolate Mousse |
100 grams (½ cup) sugar
85 grams (⅓ cup) egg yolks (5)
300 grams (10½ ounces) 70 percent dark chocolate, melted
340 grams (1⅓ cups) egg whites (10 to 11)
Combine 50 grams (¼ cup) of the sugar with the egg yolks in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Set the bowl over a pot of boiling water and whisk until the sugar has dissolved. Transfer the bowl to the mixer and whip the yolk mixture until light and fluffy.
Line a half sheet pan with a silicone baking mat.
In another mixer bowl, slowly whip the egg whites while gradually adding the remaining 50 grams (¼ cup) sugar. Increase the speed and whip until the whites form medium peaks. Fold the egg yolk mixture into the melted chocolate, then immediately fold in the whites. Spread the mousse on the prepared sheet pan and dehydrate in a 160°F (70°C) oven for 8 hours, or overnight. Break the mousse into pieces and store in a dry box.
| Milk Meringue |
920 grams (3¾ cups) whole milk
100 grams (4½ tablespoons) glucose syrup
Line a half sheet pan with a silicone baking mat.
Combine the milk and glucose in a large pot and heat over medium heat while mixing with an immersion blender. The mixture should foam as if you were making a latte. When the milk mixture reaches 175°F (80°C), skim the foam and spread it ½ inch thick on the prepared sheet pan. Dehydrate the foam in a 160°F (70°C) oven for about 2 hours. When the meringue is crispy, transfer it to a dry box.
| Dulce de Leche Curd |
4.5 grams low acyl gellan
250 grams (1 cup) cold whole milk
200 grams (⅔ cup) dulce de leche
Kosher salt
Whisk the low acyl gellan into the milk. Bring the milk to a full boil while whisking constantly. Put the dulce de leche in a food processor, begin to process, and add the hot milk while the blade is spinning. Pour the mixture into a bowl set over an ice bath and cool until it solidifies. Break the set gel into pieces, puree in a blender until smooth and shiny, and season heavily with salt. Strain and refrigerate in a squeeze bottle.
| Cocoa Nib Streusel |
200 grams (1 cup) sugar
130 grams (¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon) all-purpose flour
70 grams (½ cup) cocoa nibs
83 grams (⅔ cup) cocoa powder
113 grams (½ cup) butter, cut into ½-inch cubes
2 grams (scant ½ teaspoon) salt
Preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C). Line a sheet pan with parchment paper.
Measure the sugar, flour, cocoa nibs, and cocoa powder into a bowl of a mixer fitted with a paddle attachment and mix to combine. Add the butter cubes and mix on low speed until the mixture turns sandy. Spread out the streusel on the prepared sheet pan and bake for 15 minutes, tossing the mixture every 5 minutes.
| Chocolate Powder |
30 grams (¼ cup) cocoa powder
85 grams (¾ cup) confectioners’ sugar
25 grams tapicoca maltodextrin
30 grams (2½ tablespoons) grapeseed oil
Measure the cocoa powder, confectioners’ sugar, and maltodextrin into the bowl of a food processor. Drizzle in the grapeseed oil while the blade is spinning, and process until the mixture turns into a light, fluffy powder.
| Chocolate Stones |
900 grams (2 pounds) 70 percent Valrhona Guanaja dark chocolate
Temper the chocolate using the seed method, described below. Melt 800 grams (1.7 pounds) of the chocolate over low heat until it reaches 120°F (49°C) and remove it from the heat. Stir in the remaining 100 grams (4 ounces) unmelted (seed) chocolate with a rubber spatula. Cool the chocolate to 80.5°F (27°C). Heat the chocolate to 84°F to 88°F (29°C to 31°C) and test to see that it is properly tempered by spreading a small sample onto a piece of parchment paper and checking that it sets up and has an even finish.
Put the Cocoa Nib Streusel in a cold bowl. Add a 4-ounce ladle of tempered chocolate and, with gloves on, toss the streusel until it is evenly coated and the chocolate has solidified. Repeat this process four more times. The streusel should clump and develop a stony appearance. After the last toss with the chocolate, toss the stones in the Chocolate Powder until they are evenly coated.
> To Serve
Maldon sea salt
Mint leaves, preferably chocolate mint
Place a piece of chocolate-coated Milk Chocolate Mousse on each plate. Form small kisses of Dulce de Leche Curd on the edge of the mousse and add a few spoonfuls of Chocolate Stones, several large flakes of sea salt, and 3 or 4 chocolate mint leaves. Stand 2 pieces of Crispy Chocolate Mousse and 1 piece of Milk Meringue on edge in one side of the Milk Chocolate Mousse. Place a quenelle of Buttermilk Sorbet on the Chocolate Stones opposite the Crispy Chocolate Mousse. Finish the plate with a piece of Milk Meringue leaning against the sorbet.
Jeff Bareilles, beverage director, Manresa
chapter nine
BAR AND CELLAR
The Manresa Bar Program
THE PREPARATION OF A COCKTAIL has always involved a mixture of imagination, craft, science, and alchemy. In developing the cocktail program at Manresa, we have added our commitment to place and excellence to this recipe.
The bar mirrors Chef Kinch’s philosophy of “seasonal and spontaneous.” Our cocktails are built on fresh ingredients instead of base spirits, and our interpretations of classics incorporate as many house-made and farm-grown elements as possible. Coming from a background in wine, I initially felt like I had entered into a parallel universe: instead of seeking wines to complement Chef Kinch’s cuisine, I was now searching for spirits, herbs, bitters, tonics, and ice in its myriad shapes and sizes to combine with seasonal fruits and vegetables.
