Precious, p.27
Precious, page 27
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 12
Stronge, “The Myth of the Timur Ruby,” p. 5.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 13
M. H. Fisher, A Short History of the Mughal Empire. London: I. B. Tauris, 2016, p. 167.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 14
Queen Victoria, Journals, vol. 32. Windsor Castle, 1851, pp. 164–65.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 15
Stronge, “The Myth of the Timur Ruby,” pp. 8–9.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 16
The Otago Daily Times, May 23, 1892, Issue 9434.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 17
J. M. Ogden, “Gem Knowledge in the Thirteenth Century: The St. Albans Jewels,” The Journal of Gemmology, vol. 37 (8), 2021, p. 823.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 18
E. W. Streeter, Precious Stones and Gems: Their History, Sources and Characteristics. London, 1892, p. 209.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 19
Financial News, London, 28 February 1889, in Hughes, Ruby and Sapphire, p. 317.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 20
Streeter, Precious Stones and Gems, p. 212.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 21
R. Webster, Gems: Their Sources, Descriptions and Identification. London: Butterworths, 1962, vol. 1, pp. 303–13.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 22
Personal comment by Jeffery Bergman.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 23
V. Pardieu, “Hunting for ‘Jedi’ Spinels in Mogok,” Gems & Gemology, vol. 50 (1), Spring 2014, p. 46.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 24
M. S. Krzemnicki et al., “Cobalt-Bearing Blue Spinel from Lukande near Mahenge, Tanzania,” The Journal of Gemmology, vol. 38 (5), 2023, pp. 474–93.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 25
7 Quartz
R. Kostov and O. Pelevina, “Complex Faceted and Other Carnelian Beads from the Varna Chalcolithic Necropolis: Archaeogemmological Analysis,” Geoarchaeology and Archaeolmineralogy, Proceedings of the International Conference, Sofia, 2008, pp. 67–72.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 1
“Queen Puabi’s Headdress,” Penn Museum, Museum nos. B11693–4, B11708–12B.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 2
V. de Michele, “The ‘Libyan Desert Glass’ Scarab in Tutankhamen’s Pectoral,” Sahara 10, 1998, pp. 107–10.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 3
M. Henig and H. Molesworth, The Complete Content Cameos. Turnhout, Belgium: Brepols, 2018; for an overview of these more private jewels, see H. Molesworth and M. Henig, “Love and Passion: Personal Jewels in Late Antiquity from the Content Collection,” Gems of Heaven (eds. C. Entwistle and N. Adams). London: The British Museum, 2011, pp. 179–85.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 4
J. J. Pollini, “The Gemma Augustea: Ideology, Rhetorical Imagery, and the Creation of a Dynastic Narrative,” Narrative and Event in Ancient Art (ed. P. J. Holliday). Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, pp. 258–98; G.M.A. Richter, Engraved Gems of the Romans: A Supplement to the History of Ancient Art. London: Phaidon, 1971, p. 104.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 5
J.-B. Giard, Le Grand Cameé de France. Paris: Bibliothèque Nationale de France, 1998; Richter, Engraved Gems of the Romans, pp. 104–5.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 6
F. S. Kleiner, “The Tazza Farnese Reconsidered,” American Journal of Archaeology, vol. 96 (2), 1992, pp. 249–54.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 7
Pliny the Elder, Natural History (author’s translation), XXXVII, 121, 124.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 8
W. T. Pavitt and K. Pavitt, The Book of Talismans, Amulets and Zodiacal Gems. London: William Rider & Son, 1922, pp. 138–39.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 9
G. F. Kunz, The Curious Lore of Precious Stones. Philadelphia: J. B. Lippincott Company, 1913, p. 267.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 10
Pliny the Elder, Natural History, XXXVII, 139, 105; trans. D. E. Eichholz.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 11
S. H. Ball, “A Historical Study of Precious Stone Valuations and Prices,” Economic Geology, vol. 30 (5), 1935, pp. 630–42, via palagems.com/ball-gem-prices.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 12
Sotheby’s, The Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor, Geneva, 2–3 April 1987.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 13
The Uncrowned Jewels, BBC Documentary (1987), via youtube.com.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 14
P. Corbett, W. Landrigan, and N. Landrigan, Jewelry by Suzanne Belperron. London: Thames & Hudson, 2015, p. 221.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 15
C. Horyn, “Modern, Before the World Was,” The New York Times, 19 December 2012.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 16
Corbett, Landrigan, and Landrigan, Jewelry by Suzanne Belperron, p. 114.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 17
G. King, The Duchess of Windsor: The Uncommon Life of Wallis Simpson. New York: Citadel Press, 2000, p. 403.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 18
C. Brown, Hello Goodbye Hello: A Circle of 101 Remarkable Meetings. New York: Simon & Schuster Paperbacks, 2012, p. 331.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 19
Corbett, Landrigan, and Landrigan, Jewelry by Suzanne Belperron, p. 227.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 20
The Uncrowned Jewels.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 21
E. Possémé, “Suzanne Belperron 1900–83,” Art Deco Jewelry: Modernist Masterworks and Their Makers (eds. L. Mouillefarine and E. Possémé). London and New York: Thames & Hudson, 2009, pp. 74–76.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 22
Horyn, “Modern, Before the World Was.”
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 23
Corbett, Landrigan, and Landrigan, Jewelry by Suzanne Belperron, p. 128.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 24
The Uncrowned Jewels.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 25
Sotheby’s, The Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor, April 1987, lots 81 and 31.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 26
8 Diamond
B. Gorelik, “The Cullinan Diamond and Its True Story,” Jewellery Studies, June 2015, p. 6.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 1
E. Caesar, “The Woman Shaking Up the Diamond Industry,” The New Yorker, 27 January 2020.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 2
Gorelik, “The Cullinan Diamond,” p. 9.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 3
J. Fishman, My Darling Clementine: The Story of Lady Churchill. New York: David McKay Company, Inc., 1963, pp. 31–32.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 4
K. Scarratt and R. Shor, “The Cullinan Diamond Centennial: A History and Gemological Analysis of Cullinans I and II,” Gems & Gemology, vol. 42 (2), Summer 2006, pp. 120–32.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 5
Personal comment by Mark Cullinan.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 6
S. Shirey and J. Shigley, “Recent Advances in Understanding the Geology of Diamonds,” Gems & Gemology, vol. 49 (4), Winter 2013, pp. 188–222.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 7
“How Diamond-Bearing Kimberlites Reach the Surface of Earth: Acidification Provides the Thrust,” Science Daily, 26 January 2012; J. K. Russell et al., “Kimberlite Ascent by Assimilation-Fuelled Buoyancy,” Nature, vol. 481, 2012, pp. 352–56.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 8
M. B. Kirkley et al., “Age, Origin and Emplacement of Diamonds: Scientific Advances in the Last Decade,” Gems & Gemology, vol. 27 (1), Spring 1991, pp. 2–25.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 9
A. Janse and P. Sheahan, “Catalogue of Worldwide Diamond and Kimberlite Occurrences: A Selective and Annotative Approach,” Journal of Geochemical Exploration, vol. 53 (1–3), 1995, pp. 73–111.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 10
K. J. Anderson, “Diamonds,” MRS Bulletin, vol. 19 (8), 1994, p. 85.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 11
Scarratt and Shor, “The Cullinan Diamond Centennial,” p. 124.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 12
R. Shamasastry, Kautilya’s Arthashastra. Bangalore: Government Press, 1915, pp. 105, 145, 343.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 13
M. Frank, Flight of the Diamond Smugglers: A Tale of Pigeons, Obsession, and Greed Along Coastal South Africa. London: Icon Books Ltd., 2021, pp. 11–12, 28–30.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 14
Caesar, “The Woman Shaking Up the Diamond Industry.”
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 15
T. Nicols, Lapidary: or, The History of Pretious Stones. Cambridge: Thomas Buck, 1652, p. 17.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 16
J. Ogden, Diamonds: An Early History of the King of Gems. London: Yale University Press, 2018, p. 10.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 17
J. Courtney Sullivan, “How Diamonds Became Forever,” The New York Times, 3 May 2013.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 18
Imperialist and Dr. Jameson. Cecil Rhodes: A Biography and Appreciation. London: Chapman & Hall Ltd., 1897, p. 5.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 19
S. Reilly, “De Beers SA: A Diamond Is Forever,” NYU Stern, Case Number MKT04-01, December 2004.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 20
J. L. Ghilani, “De Beers’ ‘Fighting Diamonds’: Recruiting American Consumers in World War II Advertising,” Journal of Communication Inquiry, vol. 36 (3), 2012, pp. 222–45.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 21
Sullivan, “How Diamonds Became Forever.”
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 22
E. Epstein, “Have You Ever Tried to Sell a Diamond?,” The Atlantic, February 1982.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 23
Ibid.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 24
U. Friedman, “How an Ad Campaign Invented the Diamond Engagement Ring,” The Atlantic, February 2015.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 25
Bain & Company, “The Global Diamond Industry 2018,” pp. 24–28.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 26
J. Hummel, “Diamonds Are a Smuggler’s Best Friend: Regulation, Economics, and Enforcement in the Global Effort to Curb the Trade in Conflict Diamonds,” The International Lawyer, vol. 41 (4), 2007, pp. 1145–69.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 27
W. Dalrymple and A. Anand, Koh-i-Noor: The History of the World’s Most Infamous Diamond. London: Bloomsbury, 2018, p. 2.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 28
Ibid., p. 12.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 29
Ibid., p. 282.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 30
Ibid., p. 222.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 31
S. Shah, “Romancing the Stone: Victoria, Albert and the Koh-i-Noor Diamond,” A Journal of Decorative Arts, Design History, and Material Culture, vol. 24 (1), 2017, p. 38.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 32
Ibid., pp. 39–40; E. W. Streeter, The Great Diamonds of the World. London: George Bell & Sons, 1895, p. 42.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 33
9 Colored Diamond
References to the history of the Wittelsbach via R. Dröschel, J. Evers, and H. Ottomeyer, “The Wittelsbach Blue,” Gems & Gemology, vol. 44 (4), Winter 2008, pp. 348–63.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 1
“Graff Accused of ‘Painting over a Rembrandt’ by Gemologists,” Daily Telegraph, 29 January 2010.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 2
D. Crossland, “Billionaire Accused of Vandalism for Recutting Dh60m Wittelsbach Blue,” The National, 7 February 2010.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 3
“Bavarian Crown Jewel Given Controversial Makeover,” Spiegel International, 28 January 2010.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 4
R. Kurin, Hope Diamond: The Legendary History of a Cursed Gem. New York: Smithsonian Books, 2006, p. 3.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 5
Ibid., p. 22.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 6
Ibid., p. 27.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 7
J. Ogden, “Camels, Courts and Financing the French Blue Diamond: Tavernier’s Sixth Voyage,” The Journal of Gemmology, vol. 35 (7), 2017, p. 648.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 8
Kurin, Hope Diamond, p. 59.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 9
F. Farges, S. Sucher, H. Horovitz, and J.-M. Fourcault, “The French Blue and the Hope: New Data from the Discovery of a Historical Lead Cast,” Gems & Gemology, vol. 45 (1), 2009, p. 4.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 10
J. Ogden, “Out of the Blue: The Hope Diamond in London,” The Journal of Gemmology, vol. 36 (4), 2018, pp. 318–19.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 11
S. Lee, Dictionary of National Biography. New York: Macmillan and Co., 1891, p. 329.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 12
Ogden, “Out of the Blue,” p. 328.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 13
E. W. McLean, Father Struck It Rich. Boston: Little, Brown and Company, 1936, p. 155.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 14
Ibid., p. 171.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 15
Farges et al., “The French Blue and the Hope”; E. Gaillou et al., “The Wittelsbach-Graff and Hope Diamonds: Not Cut from the Same Rough,” Gems & Gemology, vol. 46 (2), Summer 2010, pp. 80–88.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 16
McLean, Father Struck It Rich, p. 174.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 17
Kurin, Hope Diamond, p. 207.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 18
Ibid., p. 61.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 19
Farges et al., “The French Blue and the Hope,” pp. 4–5.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 20
McLean, Father Struck It Rich, p. 177.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 21
Ibid., p. 179.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 22
Ibid., pp. 174–75.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 23
E. Smith et al., “Blue Boron-Bearing Diamonds from Earth’s Lower Mantle,” Nature, vol. 560, 2018, pp. 84–87.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 24
“The Magic of Colored Diamonds,” via www.gia.edu/gia-news-research-worlds-fascination-fancy-colored-diamonds.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 25
J. E. Shigley et al., “Discovery and Mining of the Argyle Diamond Deposit, Australia,” Gems & Gemology, vol. 37 (1), 2001, pp. 26–41.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 26
Christie’s, Magnificent Jewels, 10 November 2015, lot 409; Sotheby’s, Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels, 11 November 2015, lot 513.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 27
Sotheby’s, Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels, 13 May 2014, lot 507.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 28
10 Jade
B. Díaz del Castillo (trans. J. Lockhart), The Memoirs of the Conquistador Bernal Díaz del Castillo, vol. I. London: J. Hatchard and Son, 1844, p. 278.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 1
E. Best, The Stone Implements of the Maori. A.R. Shearer (Government Printer), 1974, p. 175.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 2
F. Ward, Jade. Bethesda, MD: Gem Book Publishers, 1996, p. 24; R. Hughes et al., Jade: A Gemologist’s Guide. Bangkok and Colorado: Lotus Publishing and RWH Publishing, 2022, p. 17.
BACK TO NOTE REFERENCE 3
G. L. Barnes, “Understanding Chinese Jade in a World Context,” Journal of the British Academy, vol. 6, 2018, pp. 9–13.
